Thursday, October 27, 2011

Diwali celebrated or how I became Hindu

Lakshmi - goddes of wealth
Yesterday was Diwali, a by almost all Indians celebrated holiday - also known as the festival of lights. So many houses were lit by christmas-like colored bulbs, and lots of fireworks lit all day & night long.

My neighbour's house entrance, decorated for Diwali

In the evening we went to my employer's home to celebrate if. Before we could eat & drink we had to perform a ritual knows as Lakshmi Puja. According to tradition people would put small oil lamps outside their homes on Diwali and hope Lakshmi will come to bless them. Goddess Lakshmi is worshipped by those who wish to acquire or to preserve wealth. It is believed that Lakshmi goes only to those houses which are clean and where the people are hardworking. She does not visit the places which are unclean/dirty or where the people are lazy.

My appartment block, with decorated balconies

Outside the gate of the appartment block I live in

Entrance of a house lit with candles
As I was told when I left my flat, I should have left either the lights on or a window open, for then Lakshmi would also come and bless my home. Unfortunately, I did neither, so chances are this is going to be a bad year for me!

For this ritual we lit many candles and placed them around the house and in front of a small shrine where small statues of the goddess were placed. Then we all got a red dot on our forehead and a sort of lace tight around your right arm. All the time we were supposed to sing or chant a song, but here we had a laptop with the correct song playing during the ritual.

Fireworks!

After this ritual we sat, ate and drank and started lighting fireworks on the streets. No one lost any fingers or got burned. At least, not anyone I was with....

Me, a converted Hindu (with what's left of the red dot)

Monday, October 24, 2011

Getting registered in India is like Facebook controlling your privacy..

It was almost like a Fawlty Towers episode (not the one I link to though), without the main character of John Cleese, but including a lot of Manuel's. The seemingly uncontrolled officials going around and in and out of the offices, coming back because they forget something, not understanding me and vice versa. It all wants to look official, but to me it was anything but. Funny though!

So, to get registered in Gurgaon you need a couple of things. Lots of paperwork, your passport, 4 photographs and quite the amount of time and patience.

We went to the local courthouse in Gurgaon, a 5 story building somewhere what seemed to me on the outskirts of the city. Outside as well as inside it is crowded with people waiting and walking, walking and waiting. Elevators are out of service. Everybody needs something done. And just as you would expect, no real waiting queues are to be seen. Of course there are, you just need to know how they work.

Waiting outside the FRO office which is at the back
The office I had to go to, the FRO, or Foreigners Registration Office, was located in a small room, with what seemed to be one main Official guy doing the work. The others, I figured out first, sitting on their plastic chairs, must have been people doing some last-minute filling out of their paperwork. The people standing around were those waiting for their audience with the Official and having him tell them that their paperwork was not right, after which they would be sitting down and scribbling down missing signatures, dates and what more. At least, that's what I thought.

Ah, waiting and writing and looking busy

Of course I did not have to stand in line, a colleague of mine from the office did that, while urging me to sit down outside the office. But it was far to interesting inside the office for me to just sit and wait.

For the last couple of years, a strong discussion has been going on concerning governments and big companies alike (facebook), archiving too much of people's personal data. Can it be controlled? And what happens with our phone numbers, addresses, passport details after we have filled them out digitally on all the new portals that we have these days?

The records!
In India, no such concerns. All paperwork is just up for grabs at the Gurgaon FRO office. Just look at the pictures below. The colorful books are the registration records since 1997 (the oldest year I found). I am in there as well now. It took me 2 trips though, my paperwork was obviously not correct. The second time we entered the room to get my papers processed, I understood what everyone was doing there.

The people sitting on the plastic chairs are actually writing down all data into these colorful books. They are the lower officials. Our main Official is just flipping through the paperwork given to him, and nodding yes or telling you what is wrong. Yet another guy is running around making photocopies. That machine must not be in close, because it takes him 10 minutes for each copy (and evidently, he takes each paper separately from the applicant and only upon finishing the full registration, will he go out for the next copy). Sometimes he forgets something, and he comes rushing back.

Paperwork (waiting to be) archived?
Of course, like in any openly corruptable society, every now and then, some people skipped the lines to offer some candy or nice wrapped boxes with who knows what kind of presents. These were put by the assistants into the only lockably storage units in the room. Obviously these gifts are more important then the records kept :)


The open door filing storage

Once done, the paperwork I handed in is kept in loose files, wrapped tight with a shoelace and then put somewhere in the open archive. No KGB stories here.

A registration form of an American lady at the Palmtree hotel, I decided not to publish any passport copies (which I have though :)


That's me, being registered in the 2011 green book
Ah well, I got myself yet another registration number, and an interesting look into the local governments working.

It seemed strange, inefficient like hell, but oh so funny.


Saturday, October 22, 2011

An almost Indian wedding....

You who have been following me on twitter and facebook know that I was invited to an Indian/French wedding. Last night was the reception or more formal part of the celebration, the night before it was more informal with the women singing some traditional songs. More on Punjabi wedding traditions here.

Entrance to indoor venue Thursday evening
This wedding, with the girl being French, and a not overly traditional family on the side of the groom, was a more quiet one, as I was told by the people I met. To me though, it was all very interesting, taking a look inside an Indian family, how they dress, behave, what they eat & drink (Indian food, bacardi-coke, Kingfisher beer, Zinzi wine).

Indoor celebration, with traditional Hindi song-singing by the women

The venues where the celebrations were held were really beautiful, especially last night. Out in the open, tables & chairs put on the grass, nice lighting, lots of food and drinks (the alcohol flows only till 22.30/23.00 due to strict laws, but the Indian people like in the rest of the world, keep on serving drinks from under the counter). They could have accomodated hundreds of people there easily.

Entrance to outdoor venue

Friday evening venue, out in the open
Celebrations end also rather early because of this. By midnight most people had left so the party of friends I was introduced to decided to go out. The evening before we actually ended up at some friend's place where the drinking continued. This night the club of choice was Out of the Box. A not too big, just opened and very popular restaurant/bar/nightclub. It was here that the friends and brothers & sisters of the happy couple sat and even I had to say a few words in honor of them. So there I was, a (what seemed to me) semi-invited guest, not knowing any of them, standing amidst their friends wishing them all the best. So that part of the Indian culture as I know it is true, all are very hospitable!
The party I was with, standing on the right my host
Late night/early morning leaving Out of the Box nightclub
So, next step will be a real Punjabi wedding. Can't wait!


Wednesday, October 19, 2011

A little on Indian business... getting settled in & my house lizzard

Interesting day today and last night as well actually. Meeting clients over dinner and today during lunch. Trying to get my finger behind how they conduct business here. Of course, lots is similar to where ever, but in India they seem to be sometimes at a different pace. Everything has to happen "asap", best is yesterday, everybody promises the same, nothing gets done in time. Delays are notorious, we all know it is going to happen, still everything will be "finished" by tomorrow..... not.

Anyway, more about business some other time, when I can evaluate more.

Today was also the day I got myself a cleaning lady. For 1500 rupees (25 EUR), she'll clean the appartment, the bathrooms (separately charges as I told before) and do the dishes. I wanted her to come every other day during the week, but that was so odd for her, she just got confused. Then I tried every day but the weekend, but that also was difficult to explain. So I will just tell her the day before if it is necessary for the next day. Also, I was hoping to pick up some Hindi from her, but she seems to shy to talk to me... Maybe that'll change over time.

Got my shirts ironed for the incredible sum of 18 rupees (6 shirts, 25 cents).... Got a lot done today actually around the house, with the help of my employer of course and their people, who made my home a little more cosy and practical today. Cabinets, shower curtains etc.

Lovely!
Even the house lizzard seems to like it since he or she moved from the kitchen to the light above the television set, where I keep all my little flies & moths :). The lizzard is liking it.




Saturday, October 15, 2011

Oh what a night.... an Indian holiday and how a party wasn't one

Last evening, after some meetings in Delhi, we went to see another performance of the ancient Dastangoi, the art of storytelling in the Urdu language. I wrote earlier about it here. Again I did not understand a word, but the setting this time was beautiful. Outside, in the Ancient Fort, a large compound of different buildings in a park-like setting near the Yamuna river, we sat in a small amphitheatre listening to what seemed to be, again, fun stories.

Look at the nice moon on the left just above the horizon
After the performance we were invited by friends to go to a party of Marie Claire, a woman's magazine on fashion and what more. A beautiful restaurant laid out in a garden, decorative lights in the trees, a wonderful buffet, good drinks, nice music, but..... no guests. We were surprised to see all but 3 tables empty, the food could serve a 100 people at least, only 25 showed up. The western representatives of Marie Claire that were invited, as our Indian host told us, must have been quite disappointed...

Where are the guests?

Ok, I did take a goodies bag home :)

It did not spoil our fun though. We talked amongst others about today's holiday, Karva Chauth, where married women (or women longing to be with a certain man) fast from sunrise to moonrise for the safety and longevity of their husbands. Nice :)


They also ornate their hands with henna, in the most beautiful fashion. One of our friends hands can be seen here below.


Beautiful hands





Thursday, October 13, 2011

Home is wherever I lay my hat?

Since internet is not installed at home yet, I grab the opportunity to do a little writing at work. Everybody needs a break, right?

So, I stayed a little longer in Holland, but as I wrote earlier, I am official now. My workpermit was given after handing in tons of documents, a translation of my degree, legalized, stamped & signed and for what? But it seems my degree in History of Russia & Eastern Europe is badly needed in India....

Monday evening the driver picked me up from the airport and dropped me at my new appartment. I had seen the flat before, empty and a bit diry. But now the walls were painted, most things cleaned and a complete inventory of furniture, kitchen appliances, towels etc. etc. was moved in. Yesterday the tv was installed, now I am waiting for the internet and the washing machine to be set-up.
Living room
The first morning I was woken by the doorbell at around 7 AM. They rang and rang and rang so I decided to get up and see who was this annoying person. It seems that people are aware a new tenant (and a Westerner for that!) moved in, so there was a guy wanting to clean the car, 2 ladies wanting to clean the house, another lady that wanted to clean the house, but I told them all to leave me for now.

My employers are obviously the ones helping me with all this and with negotiating a rate for the cleaning lady. We have not done that yet, that is why some of these ladies are coming by to get in first I guess and they have done that every morning now. And each time I tell them the same.

The cleaning-rates are divided into 2 parts. One for the appartment excluding the toilets and one for the toilets. For the 3 toilets they ask as much as for everything else. In total 2000 rupees (an approximate 35 EUR) per month for everyday cleaning was asked by one of the ladies.

Master bathroom with the "expensive" toilet

We are still looking though, 2000 rupees is too much I was told.

As for ironing (I do not like that part), there seems to be an Iron Man, no not the superhero, but a guy who irons your shirts. Hmmmmm, nice.

Some more pics of the appartment below, not all rooms are ready yet. The study and guestroom (feel free to visit!) are under "construction".



Kitchen

Master bedroom :)


View from balcony

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

And we're back...

It's been a while, I agree. It took quite some time for me to get my workpermit back in Holland. But I got it, so all official now. I even moved in to my new appartment. There were lizzards and enormous cockroaches to welcome me, I seem to have got rid of them by now...

No internet yet in my new flat, so just a short message for all you dear readers to see I am still alive. Plus some pictures of the exterior of the building I am living in. More will follow soon on the interior and of course on work & life in India....

1 of 4 towers of the appartment blocks + swimming pool

View from gallery on Gurgaon and fitness/swimming/tennis amenities :)

Guarded entrance