Monday, October 24, 2011

Getting registered in India is like Facebook controlling your privacy..

It was almost like a Fawlty Towers episode (not the one I link to though), without the main character of John Cleese, but including a lot of Manuel's. The seemingly uncontrolled officials going around and in and out of the offices, coming back because they forget something, not understanding me and vice versa. It all wants to look official, but to me it was anything but. Funny though!

So, to get registered in Gurgaon you need a couple of things. Lots of paperwork, your passport, 4 photographs and quite the amount of time and patience.

We went to the local courthouse in Gurgaon, a 5 story building somewhere what seemed to me on the outskirts of the city. Outside as well as inside it is crowded with people waiting and walking, walking and waiting. Elevators are out of service. Everybody needs something done. And just as you would expect, no real waiting queues are to be seen. Of course there are, you just need to know how they work.

Waiting outside the FRO office which is at the back
The office I had to go to, the FRO, or Foreigners Registration Office, was located in a small room, with what seemed to be one main Official guy doing the work. The others, I figured out first, sitting on their plastic chairs, must have been people doing some last-minute filling out of their paperwork. The people standing around were those waiting for their audience with the Official and having him tell them that their paperwork was not right, after which they would be sitting down and scribbling down missing signatures, dates and what more. At least, that's what I thought.

Ah, waiting and writing and looking busy

Of course I did not have to stand in line, a colleague of mine from the office did that, while urging me to sit down outside the office. But it was far to interesting inside the office for me to just sit and wait.

For the last couple of years, a strong discussion has been going on concerning governments and big companies alike (facebook), archiving too much of people's personal data. Can it be controlled? And what happens with our phone numbers, addresses, passport details after we have filled them out digitally on all the new portals that we have these days?

The records!
In India, no such concerns. All paperwork is just up for grabs at the Gurgaon FRO office. Just look at the pictures below. The colorful books are the registration records since 1997 (the oldest year I found). I am in there as well now. It took me 2 trips though, my paperwork was obviously not correct. The second time we entered the room to get my papers processed, I understood what everyone was doing there.

The people sitting on the plastic chairs are actually writing down all data into these colorful books. They are the lower officials. Our main Official is just flipping through the paperwork given to him, and nodding yes or telling you what is wrong. Yet another guy is running around making photocopies. That machine must not be in close, because it takes him 10 minutes for each copy (and evidently, he takes each paper separately from the applicant and only upon finishing the full registration, will he go out for the next copy). Sometimes he forgets something, and he comes rushing back.

Paperwork (waiting to be) archived?
Of course, like in any openly corruptable society, every now and then, some people skipped the lines to offer some candy or nice wrapped boxes with who knows what kind of presents. These were put by the assistants into the only lockably storage units in the room. Obviously these gifts are more important then the records kept :)


The open door filing storage

Once done, the paperwork I handed in is kept in loose files, wrapped tight with a shoelace and then put somewhere in the open archive. No KGB stories here.

A registration form of an American lady at the Palmtree hotel, I decided not to publish any passport copies (which I have though :)


That's me, being registered in the 2011 green book
Ah well, I got myself yet another registration number, and an interesting look into the local governments working.

It seemed strange, inefficient like hell, but oh so funny.


Saturday, October 22, 2011

An almost Indian wedding....

You who have been following me on twitter and facebook know that I was invited to an Indian/French wedding. Last night was the reception or more formal part of the celebration, the night before it was more informal with the women singing some traditional songs. More on Punjabi wedding traditions here.

Entrance to indoor venue Thursday evening
This wedding, with the girl being French, and a not overly traditional family on the side of the groom, was a more quiet one, as I was told by the people I met. To me though, it was all very interesting, taking a look inside an Indian family, how they dress, behave, what they eat & drink (Indian food, bacardi-coke, Kingfisher beer, Zinzi wine).

Indoor celebration, with traditional Hindi song-singing by the women

The venues where the celebrations were held were really beautiful, especially last night. Out in the open, tables & chairs put on the grass, nice lighting, lots of food and drinks (the alcohol flows only till 22.30/23.00 due to strict laws, but the Indian people like in the rest of the world, keep on serving drinks from under the counter). They could have accomodated hundreds of people there easily.

Entrance to outdoor venue

Friday evening venue, out in the open
Celebrations end also rather early because of this. By midnight most people had left so the party of friends I was introduced to decided to go out. The evening before we actually ended up at some friend's place where the drinking continued. This night the club of choice was Out of the Box. A not too big, just opened and very popular restaurant/bar/nightclub. It was here that the friends and brothers & sisters of the happy couple sat and even I had to say a few words in honor of them. So there I was, a (what seemed to me) semi-invited guest, not knowing any of them, standing amidst their friends wishing them all the best. So that part of the Indian culture as I know it is true, all are very hospitable!
The party I was with, standing on the right my host
Late night/early morning leaving Out of the Box nightclub
So, next step will be a real Punjabi wedding. Can't wait!


Wednesday, October 19, 2011

A little on Indian business... getting settled in & my house lizzard

Interesting day today and last night as well actually. Meeting clients over dinner and today during lunch. Trying to get my finger behind how they conduct business here. Of course, lots is similar to where ever, but in India they seem to be sometimes at a different pace. Everything has to happen "asap", best is yesterday, everybody promises the same, nothing gets done in time. Delays are notorious, we all know it is going to happen, still everything will be "finished" by tomorrow..... not.

Anyway, more about business some other time, when I can evaluate more.

Today was also the day I got myself a cleaning lady. For 1500 rupees (25 EUR), she'll clean the appartment, the bathrooms (separately charges as I told before) and do the dishes. I wanted her to come every other day during the week, but that was so odd for her, she just got confused. Then I tried every day but the weekend, but that also was difficult to explain. So I will just tell her the day before if it is necessary for the next day. Also, I was hoping to pick up some Hindi from her, but she seems to shy to talk to me... Maybe that'll change over time.

Got my shirts ironed for the incredible sum of 18 rupees (6 shirts, 25 cents).... Got a lot done today actually around the house, with the help of my employer of course and their people, who made my home a little more cosy and practical today. Cabinets, shower curtains etc.

Lovely!
Even the house lizzard seems to like it since he or she moved from the kitchen to the light above the television set, where I keep all my little flies & moths :). The lizzard is liking it.




Saturday, October 15, 2011

Oh what a night.... an Indian holiday and how a party wasn't one

Last evening, after some meetings in Delhi, we went to see another performance of the ancient Dastangoi, the art of storytelling in the Urdu language. I wrote earlier about it here. Again I did not understand a word, but the setting this time was beautiful. Outside, in the Ancient Fort, a large compound of different buildings in a park-like setting near the Yamuna river, we sat in a small amphitheatre listening to what seemed to be, again, fun stories.

Look at the nice moon on the left just above the horizon
After the performance we were invited by friends to go to a party of Marie Claire, a woman's magazine on fashion and what more. A beautiful restaurant laid out in a garden, decorative lights in the trees, a wonderful buffet, good drinks, nice music, but..... no guests. We were surprised to see all but 3 tables empty, the food could serve a 100 people at least, only 25 showed up. The western representatives of Marie Claire that were invited, as our Indian host told us, must have been quite disappointed...

Where are the guests?

Ok, I did take a goodies bag home :)

It did not spoil our fun though. We talked amongst others about today's holiday, Karva Chauth, where married women (or women longing to be with a certain man) fast from sunrise to moonrise for the safety and longevity of their husbands. Nice :)


They also ornate their hands with henna, in the most beautiful fashion. One of our friends hands can be seen here below.


Beautiful hands